Picture 2,3 &4:
Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Nitrogen is a mobile element, meaning it can travel anywhere it’s needed within the plant.
Inside the plant, Nitrogen converts to amino acids, the building blocks for proteins. These amino acids are then used in forming protoplasm, which is used in cell division. These amino acids are also utilized in producing necessary enzymes and structural parts of the plant and can become part of the stored proteins in the plant.
Nitrogen serves as the source for the dark green color in the leaves of various crops. This is a result of a high concentration of chlorophyll. Nitrogen combined with high concentrations of chlorophyll utilizes the sunlight as an energy source to carryout essential plant functions including nutrient uptake.
Nitrogen deficiency will usually start on the lower to middle part of the plant, affecting older leaves first; then will work its way up the plant. This is because Nitrogen is a mobile element, and can travel freely around the plant as needed. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen deficiency will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium are easy to get confused. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen deficiency will also cause shorter, stunted growth, small leaves and thin stems. Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, plants will typically show nitrogen deficiency. This process is completely normal; the plant is naturally yellowing because it’s using stored nutrients in its fan leaves. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them. To fix a nitrogen deficiency is quite simple: for immediate effects, use a bottled nutrient that contains nitrates or ammonium. Stay clear of Urea nitrogen. This is normally used for slow release nitrogen and is used by soil experts to build their own super soil.
The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very dry conditions, almost a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients, they may show NH4+ toxicity, which show smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, and leaf margins that will roll downward. Big fan leaves will have “the claw” look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well.
Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at pH levels of 4.0- 5.5.
Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a pH level of 6.0-8.0. (Wouldn’t recommend having a pH of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a pH of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Nitrogen gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0.
Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a pH of 5.5 to 8.0
(Wouldn’t recommend having a pH over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
To fix Nitrogen deficiency
Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much Nitrogen will delay flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor. A good solid N-P-K ratio will fix any nitrogen deficiency. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Nitrogen in them will fix a nitrogen deficiency., Peters all purpose plant food 20-20-20 is good, Miracle grow All purpose plant food, Miracle grow Tomato plant food, (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) as well and blood meal! If you need to give your plants a quick solution to nitrogen and you want to use blood meal, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Other sources of nitrogen are dried blood, Cottonseed meal that is slow acting, Insect eating bat guano, which is fast acting. Bone meal which is a gradual absorption when not made into a tea.( also excellent source of phosphorus). Fish Meal Or Fish Emulsion is a good source of nitrogen and is medium acting. Worm castings, which is gradual absorption. Seabird guano, all purpose Millennia Seabird guano, Original Seabird guano All Purpose, Crab shell, which is slow absorption. Fox Farm Grow Big.
To fix Nitrogen Toxicity
Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that’s the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it.
To learn more about the different types of Nitrogen (Urea, Nitrate etc) Visit here and here!